The teak toe rail on the transom is almost weathered away. It needs to be replaced.
So we need to make a steambox. Pretty easy. Done using PVC tubing I had on hand plus a 1000W electric kettle ($5 at Salvation Army Store). All it needed was a little modification with a utility knife and file to make it fit a PVC street elbow.
Its tilted so that condensate will restock the pot – it needs to last for 40 minutes before boiling dry, based on the thickness of the teak. Removed the thermostat from the kettle so we get the full 1000W 100% of the time. Also surrounded the PVC tube with pipe insulation and bubble wrap so it will achieve the full 212 deg. all along the length.
Pot ran dry at exactly 40 min. Slapped it in the form and applied the clamps. I’ll let it sit here for a few days before removing. There will be some snap-back so I made the form more curved than what’s desired. (Old piece laid on top for comparison.)
Our galvanized water tanks had rust in their narrow bottoms where the undrainable last gallon would sit year after year. This was causing a bit of rust to show up in the pumpout; no perforation of the tanks had occurred. To deal with this the rust was removed using a chelating agent called Evapo-Rust. The interior was then etched with muriatic acid, rinsed, dried, and coated with 3M Scotchkote Liquid Epoxy Coating 323. This is a product designed to create potable water tanks within the weldments of ships. It is certified to ANSI/NSF Standard 61, Drinking Water System Components. Its the bright green stuff.
When first registering the boat, the State of Illinois wanted the hull number. Search as I might, I never could find it. But here it is in the aft lazarette. You have to actually be inside to see it. (If I was one inch taller I’d never have made it.) Had to crawl in here to unbolt the taffrail, stern cleats, etc. to clear the aft deck for painting.