Sea-Hood

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Removing the sea-hood over the companionway revealed an extremely dirty space, clearly never accessed during the 42 year lifetime of the boat. But its all gel-coat so it cleaned up very easily. This part of the deck was dry. I found out why when I drilled out a screw hole to core-bond: its already done! (I suspect the deck prism was also done at the factory since that potentially massive leak area of the deck was also bone-dry.)

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The area on the sea-hood where the instrument pod abuts the non-skid shows some stress-cracks in the gel-coat. Since I don’t want those reappearing in my new paint job I decided to reinforce this area. Can’t put a stringer here because of clearance issues, but four layers of ten ounce cloth should do the trick.

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The underside of the sea-hood was also super-filthy but being rough layup did not clean easily. Formula 409 cleaner was only marginally effective, as was Interlux Fiberglass Solvent Wash 202. The area surrounding the new glass shows how well they worked: still darkly stained. Good old MEK (methylethylketone) did the trick, however. I also abraded the area with a rotary Scotch-Brite disk before laying in the glass.

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On the rest of the deck I got rid of the old non-skid by simply sanding it away. Its composed of gel-coat, not fiberglass, so adds little to the strength of the deck. But here I didn’t want to weaken things at all so decided to fill and fair the area instead. Before sanding.

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After sanding.

Painting the cabintop

First, the non-skid.  I used this peppercorn jar cap to radius the corners.

First, the non-skid. I used this peppercorn jar cap to radius the corners.


The cabintop aft of the spray-deflector and the companionway hatch cover, not previously fitted with non-skid, are getting it now.

The cabintop aft of the spray-deflector and the companionway hatch cover, not previously fitted with non-skid, are getting it now.


For the tightest "peppercorn-lid" corners I used a special fine-line tape that is very stretchy.  (The tan tape.)

For the tightest “peppercorn-lid” corners I used a special fine-line tape that is very stretchy. (The tan tape.)


The paint going here will be mixed with tiny phenolic spheres to provide texture.

The paint going here will be mixed with tiny phenolic spheres to provide texture.


All protrusions from the deck will be relieved one inch from the non-skid.  This is one of 16 pillars that support the teak grab-rail.

All protrusions from the deck will be relieved one inch from the non-skid. This is one of 16 pillars that support the teak grab-rail.


Sea-hood & companionway hatch

Sea-hood & companionway hatch


Cabintop ready for the non-skid paint, a two-part polyurethane.

Cabintop ready for the non-skid paint, a two-part polyurethane.


Only the first coat will contain the non-skid additive.  The second coat will be unadulterated while the third (final) coat will be mixed with a flattening agent to kill the mirror-like gloss that this paint normally has.  The area just forward of the companionway shows the deck color as it was in 1971.  This part of the boat has been completely hidden by the sea hood for the past 42 years.

Only the first coat will contain the non-skid additive. The second coat will be unadulterated while the third (final) coat will be mixed with a flattening agent to kill the mirror-like gloss that this paint normally has. The area just forward of the companionway shows the deck color as it was in 1971. This part of the boat has been completely hidden by the sea hood for the past 42 years, so no sun-bleaching or weathering of the surface color has occurred.


The sea-hood had a molded-in non-skid pattern but I ground it all off to provide a visual consistency.

The sea-hood had a molded-in non-skid pattern but I ground it all off to provide a visual consistency.


The companionway hatch was previously smooth (and very slippery when wet).

The companionway hatch was previously smooth (and very slippery when wet).


Here's the third coat, this last one mixed with a "flattener" to render the finish "satin" as opposed to the (high-glare) mirror-like finish without it.

Here’s the third coat, this last one mixed with a “flattener” to render the finish “satin” as opposed to the (high-glare) mirror-like finish without it.


Looks pretty good (if you're not too close).

Looks pretty good (if you’re not too close).


And the Dorade vents, hard to paint because of the many angles - all by brush, no roller.

And the Dorade vents, hard to paint because of the many angles – all by brush, no roller.


So what you get is brush marks.  And this was thinned to the maximum allowed to increase

So what you get is brush marks. And this was thinned to the maximum allowed to increase “flow-out” and with a high quality brush. Not too bad but not as smooth as with the roller.


Sea hood, mostly roller, some brush.  Not too bad.

Sea hood, mostly roller, some brush. Not too bad.


Likewise with the companionway hatch:  almost all roller so looks pretty good.  The roller leaves a slight "orange peel" texture which looks good with the satin finish.

Likewise with the companionway hatch: almost all roller so looks pretty good. The roller leaves a slight “orange peel” texture which looks good with the satin finish.


But this is not a spray job.  So there are some drips/sags.

But this is not a spray job. So there are some drips/sags.


And some pretty obvious brush marks are not uncommon.

And some pretty obvious brush marks are not uncommon.

Painting the deck

Penciling in where the borders between the "non-skid" and the "waterways" will be.

Penciling in where the borders between the “non-skid” and the “waterways” will be.


Chainplate, stanchion, and staysail sheet-lead positions.

Chainplate, stanchion, and staysail sheet-lead positions.


This is the first coat, containing non-skid particles.

This is the first coat, containing non-skid particles.


Between the grey and the blue tape:  those are the "waterways" (the areas to be left smooth).

Between the grey and the blue tape: those are the “waterways” (the areas to be left smooth).


Here's the finished paint job.

Here’s the finished paint job.


Those areas that did not get G10 backing plates inserted in place of balsa core will instead be "core bonded" with epoxy to prevent leaks from entering the balsa.  This bit removes the balsa from the drilled hole plus a bit more.

Those areas that did not get G10 backing plates inserted in place of balsa core will instead be “core bonded” with epoxy to prevent leaks from entering the balsa. This bit removes the balsa from the drilled hole plus a bit more.


Rather than using a modern bedding compound like polyurethane or polysulfide I'm using butyl tape.

Rather than using a modern bedding compound like polyurethane or polysulfide I’m using butyl tape.


You tighten up the fitting and it "gooshes" out from underneath.

You tighten up the fitting and it “gooshes” out from underneath.


But don't trim away the excess just yet.  Two more tightening sessions are required, each a day apart.  And the stuff never "sets up".  In thirty years it will still be soft and sticky and that's exactly the point.

But don’t trim away the excess just yet. Two more tightening sessions are required, each a day apart. And the stuff never “sets up”. In thirty years it will still be soft and sticky and that’s exactly the point.


The edges of all the holes get beveled to form a little funnel, so that when the fitting is tightened down sealant gets forced down around the fastener.

The edges of all the holes get beveled to form a little funnel, so that when the fitting is tightened down sealant gets forced down around the fastener.

One year later and the deck recore is finally complete

Here’s the material list:

2/24/2012 sheetplastic (eBay) G10/FR4 1/4″X9.375″X15.25″ laminate sht $23.50 2 $47.00
11/16/2012 Defender Industries West System epoxy resin 105 gallon $81.99 5 $409.95
11/16/2012 Defender Industries West System fast hardener 205, gal. $126.99 1 $126.99
11/16/2012 Defender Industries Cab-O-Sil fumed silica, 10 lb. bulk bag $99.99 1 $99.99
11/16/2012 Defender Industries fiberglass cloth 10 oz 38″ wide, yd $8.49 15 $127.35
11/16/2012 Defender Industries Baltek Contourkore 1/2″ thick, 24″X 48″ $42.99 6 $257.94
2/11/2013 Jamestown Distributors plastic spreader 4 1/4 X 2 1/2 5/PK $3.68 1 $3.68
2/11/2013 Jamestown Distributors West System roller cover $5.98 2 $11.96
2/11/2013 Jamestown Distributors West System 802 roller pan $5.31 1 $5.31
2/11/2013 Jamestown Distributors pail plastic paint 16 0z $0.58 5 $2.89
2/11/2013 Jamestown Distributors standard roller aluminum 5/8 X 3″ $9.98 1 $9.98
2/11/2013 Jamestown Distributors biaxial cloth 17oz, 3/4 oz mat 50″, yd $7.50 15 $112.50
2/11/2013 Jamestown Distributors West System roller frame 3″ $5.99 1 $5.99
3/5/2013 Jamestown Distributors Norton 6″ sanding disks, 80 grit, 50ea $28.98 1 $28.98
3/5/2013 Jamestown Distributors biaxial cloth 17oz 4″ X 15yd, 3/4oz mat $23.93 1 $23.93
3/5/2013 Jamestown Distributors fiberglass tape 8.7 oz 2″ X 10 yd $6.79 2 $13.58
3/5/2013 Jamestown Distributors fiberglass tape 8.7 oz 3″ X 50 yd $24.00 1 $24.00
3/5/2013 Larsen Marine West System epoxy resin 105 gallon $99.99 1 $99.99
3/29/2013 Rigging Only Schaefer chainplate cover 84-56 $16.28 6 $97.68
4/2/2013 Jamestown Dist. West System Low Dens. Filler 407 12oz $39.50 1 $39.50
4/2/2013 Jamestown Distributors West System 809 notched spreader $0.97 6 $5.82
4/2/2013 Jamestown Distributors West System roller cover $6.28 1 $6.28
4/7/2013 Compass Marine Bed-It butyl tape $22.75 2 $45.50
4/22/2013 Jamestown Distributors 3M Hookit sheets 4 1/2 X 30′ 60 grit $87.99 1 $87.99
4/22/2013 Jamestown Distributors 3M Hookit fairing board, flexible $59.99 1 $59.99
5/10/2013 Larsen Marine West System epoxy resin 105 gallon $89.99 1 $89.99
5/13/2013 Larsen Marine West System fast hardener 205, qt. $45.18 1 $45.18
5/14/2013 Larsen Marine West System fiberglass repair guide $5.95 1 $5.95
5/14/2013 Larsen Marine West System pump set $15.99 1 $15.99
5/15/2013 Larsen Marine 9 oz glass tape 2″ X 50 yd $49.50 1 $49.50
5/16/2013 Larsen Marine 3M scotch-brite pad red $2.39 1 $2.39
5/20/2013 Larsen Marine West System Low Density Filler 407 12oz $39.99 1 $39.99
5/21/2013 Larsen Marine West System epoxy resin 105 gallon $99.99 1 $99.99
5/21/2013 Larsen Marine West System slow hardener 206, qt. $45.18 1 $45.18
5/28/2013 Larsen Marine 3M 233+ masking tape, 2″ $14.99 1 $14.99
5/28/2013 Larsen Marine 3M 233+ masking tape, 2″ $14.99 1 $14.99
5/28/2013 Larsen Marine West System Low Density Filler 407 12oz $35.00 1 $35.00
5/30/2013 Larsen Marine West System Low Density Filler 407 12oz $35.99 1 $35.99
5/31/2013 Larsen Marine West System Low Density Filler 407 12oz $30.00 1 $30.00
6/5/2013 TCP Global Gerson green ultraprep tack cloths $14.96 1 $14.96
6/10/2013 Larsen Marine West System roller cover $6.99 1 $6.99
6/10/2013 Larsen Marine West System epoxy resin 105 gallon $89.99 1 $89.99
6/11/2013 Larsen Marine Interlux Reducing Solvent 2333N, qt. $29.69 1 $29.69
6/11/2013 Larsen Marine Interlux Epoxy Primekote, qt. $47.96 1 $47.96
6/11/2013 Larsen Marine West System mixing sticks $2.99 1 $2.99
6/11/2013 Larsen Marine West System poly mixing pots 16oz $0.89 3 $2.67
6/11/2013 Larsen Marine roller cage, 4″ $2.65 1 $2.65
6/19/2013 Larsen Marine epoxy primekote white – qt $49.99 1 $49.99
6/24/2013 Larsen Marine 4″ mohair cover $2.99 1 $2.99
6/24/2013 Larsen Marine 2″ throwaway brush $2.12 1 $2.12
6/24/2013 Larsen Marine 3M masking tape 1″ 233+ $7.99 1 $7.99
6/24/2013 Larsen Marine 3M masking tape 2″ 233+ $14.99 1 $14.99
6/24/2013 Larsen Marine 1.5″ throwaway brush $1.75 1 $1.75
6/24/2013 Larsen Marine polymeric noskid compound H/P $21.28 1 $21.28
6/24/2013 Larsen Marine Interlux flattening agent, qt $69.59 1 $69.59
7/1/2013 Larsen Marine Interlux Perfection Platinum qt $84.57 1 $84.57
7/1/2013 Larsen Marine 64 oz plastic tub white $2.48 2 $4.96
8/28/2013 Larsen Marine carbide sanding screen, P220 $0.79 1 $0.79
8/31/2013 Larsen Marine 1/2″ fine line masking tape $21.48 1 $21.48
9/4/2013 Larsen Marine 220 grit emory screen $1.00 1 $1.00
9/23/2013 Home Depot mini-roller tray $1.79 6 $10.74
9/23/2013 Ace Hardware Purdy short-nap mini-rollers $6.99 2 $13.98
9/23/2013 Ace Hardware Purdy mini-roller frame $5.99 1 $5.99
9/23/2013 Larsen Marine Interlux Perfection Platinum qt $89.54 1 $89.54
9/24/2013 Larsen Marine 32 oz E-Z MIX cups $1.55 3 $4.65
9/24/2013 Larsen Marine 1.5″ badger brush $11.99 2 $23.98
9/27/2013 Larsen Marine 1.5″ Marlox brush $5.65 4 $22.60
9/27/2013 Larsen Marine 3M 233+ masking tape, 3/4″ $6.49 1 $6.49
9/27/2013 Larsen Marine 320A wet/dry sandpaper $1.35 2 $2.70
9/27/2013 Larsen Marine 3M blue masking tape, 1″ 2090 med adh $6.99 1 $6.99
9/27/2013 Larsen Marine 3M blue masking tape, 3/4″ 2080 low adh $6.99 1 $6.99
9/27/2013 Larsen Marine 64 os plastic tub $2.48 3 $7.44
9/30/2013 Larsen Marine Interlux fiberglass solvent wash $22.49 1 $22.49
10/1/2013 Larsen Marine Interlux Perfection Platinum qt $89.54 1 $89.54
10/8/2013 Ace Hardware Purdy short-nap mini-rollers $6.99 1 $6.99
10/8/2013 Larsen Marine 1″ throwaway brush $1.40 2 $2.80
10/15/2013 Larsen Marine West Systems pump set $14.39 1 $14.39
10/16/2013 Larsen Marine 22-18 butt-joint wire connectors $3.05 1 $3.05
10/18/2013 Larsen Marine West System syringe 2/pack $5.22 1 $5.22
10/22/2013 Larsen Marine 1 1/4″ track end stops $5.89 4 $23.56
10/30/2013 Ace Hardware acetone, gal. $18.99 1 $18.99
11/18/2013 Larsen Marine assorted ss fasteners $56.88 1 $56.88
11/19/2013 Larsen Marine assorted ss fasteners $5.67 1 $5.67
11/21/2013 Larsen Marine 1/2″ teak plugs, pkg. of 8 $4.61 2 $9.22
12/6/2013 Ace Hardware PB Blaster $7.49 1 $7.49
12/13/2013 Larsen Marine Brightside polyurethane, off-white, qt. $40.00 1 $40.00
12/13/2013 Larsen Marine assorted ss fasteners $8.76 1 $8.76

total materials cost: $3,278.44

Total time spent on recore: 900 hrs.

And here’s the final result:
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