2011 Cruise

ITINERARY:

Waukegan, IL
Milwaukee, WI
Manitowoc
Manistee, MI
South Manitou Island
Leland
Beaver Island
St. Ignace
DeTour Village, MI
Meldrum Bay, ON
Gore Bay
Little Current
Heywood Island
The Pool, Baie Fine
Killarney
Keyhole Island, Collins Inlet
Killarney
Little Current
Benjamin Islands
Beardrop Harbor
Meldrum Bay
Milford Haven, ON
Yacht Haven, Drummond Island, MI
Whitney Bay, Drummond Island
Bois Blanc Island
Mackinaw City
Petoskey
Northport
South Manitou Island
Portage Lake
Ludington
Grand Haven
South Haven, MI
Waukegan, IL

1200 miles

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There she is, the somnolent ursus.  No!  On the RIGHT, Sleeping Bear Dune!

There she is, the somnolent ursus emerging. No! On the RIGHT, Sleeping Bear Dune, coming up!


"Tilly" the Tiller Master (mistress?) autopilot takes care of things as long as its not blowing too hard or we're not going downwind.

“Tilly” the Tiller Master (mistress?) autopilot takes care of things as long as its not blowing too hard or we’re not going downwind.


See that?  That's a giant ship, right where we like 'em:  far away.

See that? That’s a giant ship, right where we like ’em: far away.


Approaching South Manitou Lighthouse

Approaching South Manitou Lighthouse


They still light it every night but its just for fun these days, no longer being on the Light List.

They still light it every night but its just for fun these days, no longer being on the Light List.


That's out anchor-riding sail, which keeps us from "bow-sailing" back and forth all night long.

That’s our anchor-riding sail, which flies from our backstay and keeps us from “bow-sailing” back and forth all night long.


Fishtown, Leland, MI

Fishtown, Leland, MI


North shore, Beaver Island

North shore, Beaver Island


Sept. 2011 159
Whiskey Point, where spirits were (illegally) transferred to the Indians.

Sept. 2011 167
Ran aground here IN THE GAS DOCK! Had to winch ourselves up to the pump and then away again. This is when you don’t want a six-foot draft.

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Folk Music Festival, held out in the middle of nowhere on Beaver Island. The amplifiers were powered by portable generators. We had to rent a car to get there because Beaver is BIG!.


The Dude-ette abides.

The Dude-ette abides.


St. Ignus.  We were glad to be in harbor this night, as NEXRAD radar showed a very ugly storm approaching.  We walked to the highlands to see if we could catch a glimpse of our friend Mike Smith, who was helming one of the big boats in the Chicago to Mackinac Island race.  He sailed under the bridge about an hour later, after dark, just as the storm hit and laid his boat over on its beam ends.  Around this time two people died aboard "Wing Nuts", the only fatalities in the over 100 year history of the race.  Just before the storm hit we were amazed by the incredible number and frequency of lightning flashes:  multiple flashes PER SECOND for many minutes with absolutely NO thunder audible!  Secure in our slip, we were still heeled over by the blast when it did arrive.

St. Ignus. We were glad to be in harbor this night as our radar showed a very ugly storm approaching. We walked to the highlands to see if we could catch a glimpse of our friend Mike Smith, who was helming one of the big boats in the Chicago to Mackinac Island race. He sailed under the bridge about an hour later, after dark, just as the storm hit and laid his boat over on its beam ends. Around this time two people died aboard s/v Wing Nuts, the only fatalities in the over 100 year history of the race. Just before the storm hit we were amazed by the incredible number and frequency of lightning flashes: multiple flashes PER SECOND for many minutes with absolutely NO thunder audible! Secure in our slip, we were still heeled over by the blast when it did arrive.


DeTour Village Marina.  This is so awesome, a hot-tub-boat.   As the sun was setting I saw the young captain, wine bottle and two glasses in hand, leading a young ingenue down the causeway.  Boating with purpose!

DeTour Village Marina. This is so awesome, a hot-tub-boat. As the sun was setting I saw the young captain, wine bottle and two glasses in hand, leading a young ingenue down the causeway. Boating with purpose!


As we cross into Canadian waters we fly a Canadian "courtesy" flag, the yellow "pratique" flag (signifying that we have  not yet cleared customs) and the Great Lakes Cruising Club burgee.

As we cross into Canadian waters we fly a Canadian “courtesy” flag, the yellow “pratique” flag (signifying that we have not yet cleared customs) and the Great Lakes Cruising Club burgee.


Gore Bay, Manitoulin Island, ON.  This is the largest fresh water island on the planet at over 1000 sq. mi.

Gore Bay, Manitoulin Island, ON. This is the largest fresh water island on the planet at over 1000 sq. mi.


This is Gordon's Lodge, where we had a most bizarre interaction with the owner.  Showing up there for lunch, the

This is Gordon’s Lodge, where we had a most bizarre interaction with the owner. Showing up there for lunch, the lady behind the desk asked if we were booking a room. When we said no, she said, “Didn’t you see the sign?” (A sign at the head of the drive reads, “Lodge Guests Only”) I said that we had hoped to be her guests for lunch. “No, the restaurant is only for people booking rooms, you’ll have to leave.” I said this couldn’t be correct because our two cruising guides both say the restaurant is open to the public, and one was a paid listing by Gordon’s Lodge! “What year is your guide?” “This year”, I said. “Well, it won’t be in there next year.”, she replied. I objected that we had walked 40 minutes to get to the lodge based on their ad., and we were now hungry and tired. “Do we come onto your boat uninvited?”, she said, “You should not have come here; you both have to leave immediately!” That was enough for us, so we turned and left the office. The woman followed us down the steps and began to complain loudly that we were walking too slow, that we were trespassing and that we had to get off their property NOW. As we walked faster she fell behind. Nearing the end of the drive we met another cruising couple we knew from other ports; they were coming up the drive for lunch! As we paused to warn them off we hear shouting; now running up on us were the woman and two men. She yelled for all four of us to leave NOW, and that she is calling the Provincial Police to have us all arrested! This treatment did not sit well with our friends so lots of shouting ensued. But we were already at the street and so escaped any more abuse. This crazy behavior was so unlike the always calm and courteous Canadians that we were in shock. Back at the boat I checked Gordon’s Lodge on TripAdvisor.com. It turns out that this is the way EVERYBODY gets treated there! In fact, we got off easy. Try it yourself; the stories are hilarious!


The 100 year old swing bridge that connects Manitoulin Island to the mainland.

The 100 year old swing bridge that connects Manitoulin Island to the mainland.


Our half-day car excursion.  The lady in the First Nations art store in Little Current asked if we had been to their "main store" south of town on the main highway.  When we said no, she replied, "Then take the van.  Here are the keys.  Get lunch while you're out.  No charge."

Our half-day car excursion. The lady in the First Nations art store in Little Current asked if we had been to their “main store” south of town on the main highway. When we said no, she replied, “Then take the van. Here are the keys. Get lunch while you’re out. No charge.”


Cormorant drying his feathers after a plunge.

Cormorant drying his feathers after a plunge.


The Pool, Baie Fine.  Hey buddy, didn't you forget something?  YOUR MAST.    Turns out he's not a sailor anyway and got the boat "cheap".  Sails just cause trouble anyway.

The Pool, Baie Fine. Hey buddy, didn’t you forget something? YOUR MAST. Turns out he’s not a sailor anyway and got the boat “cheap”. Sails just cause trouble anyway.


The Pool is the terminus of ten mile long Baie Fine. And who is here ahead of us?  Our friends on Blue Heaven from Waukegan.  Small world.

The Pool is the terminus of ten mile long Baie Fine. And who is here ahead of us? Our friends on Blue Heaven from Waukegan. Small world.


There's only one cottage near The Pool.  Built by Ole Evinrude, inventor of the outboard motor.  Still in the family.  [/caption]

There’s only one cottage near The Pool. Built by Ole Evinrude, inventor of the outboard motor. Still in the family.
[caption id="attachment_1890" align="alignnone" width="2816"]Alone in The Pool. Alone in The Pool.


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Great Lakes Cruising Club Wilderness Rally, Keyhole Island, Collins Inlet. About thirty boats showed up, mostly sail.


Lots of cruising experience in this crowd!

Lots of cruising experience in this crowd!


Back in Little Current for Haweater Weekend - biggest event of the year!

Back in Little Current for Haweater Weekend – biggest event of the year!


Beardrop Harbor - one of the best.

Beardrop Harbor – one of the best.


Beardrop, by the beaver dam.

Beardrop, by the beaver dam.


morning dew

morning dew


Milford Haven, last anchorage in Canada.

Milford Haven, last anchorage in Canada.


Yacht Haven, Drummond Island, MI

Yacht Haven, Drummond Island, MI